We were looking for a letterbox near Glass Beach in Port Allen on Kauai. We started walking up the hill looking for our clue, a Buddha. We began to notice rocks in the dead weeds. Some of the rocks looked like headstones. As we looked closer we could see Japanese characters carved into the rocks. It seemed that a few people had chosen to be buried here overlooking the beautiful blue ocean. We would approach a stone to examine it only too see more just a little way off and then more and then more. Suddenly we realized we were in the middle of a forgotten cemetery. The dead weeds were taller than the headstones carved from volcanic rock. They were obscured so that you would think that you had seen them all only to discover more on the next rise of land.
Nearly everything was dead. There were a very few tall conifers and one or two green weeds and one lovely Heliconia plant that someone had planted on a grave. The weeds that were all about were dead, grayish brown. It was so dry one would never guess that you were on a rainy island just 10 yards from the crashing pacific ocean. It felt more like Nevada or Arizona.
As we returned to the Japanese section we could see characters carved into the rocks. Some had lotus flowers carved at the base and we found two with a Buddha carved on them. One had the red dust of Kauai in the carved characters and it reminded me of the story I had heard that is was Japanese custom of painting over the name of your spouse in red paint as a promise to join them. Did the person for whom this stone was carved had someone to pledge to them?
Part of me wanted to move to Kauai and tend to these forgotten graves. The other part of me wanted it to stay like this forever. It was surreal this barren world of death, every thing reminding one of death and decay, completely void of life on one side and the beautiful vivid blue pacific ocean crashing up again black rocks white ocean spraying 20 feet into the air pulsing reminding of the rhythm of life with in the waves and scattered amongst it all the remains of a dump. Cast off tokens once useful, now waste, forgotten.
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